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Once a staple of the textile industry, hemp is now making a remarkable comeback, driven by a craze for sustainable, local alternatives. Thanks to its strong, environmentally-friendly fibres, hemp could gradually take over from cotton and synthetic textiles. In Wallonia, a number of initiatives are being launched to revive this sector, from cultivation to processing, with promising results. Let's find out together how the cultivation of textile hemp is becoming an integral part of the Belgian industrial landscape.
Renewed interest in textile hemp
Hemp has long been used to manufacture clothingboat sails and even ropes. However, its use gradually declined in the twentieth century, mainly because of the rise of cotton and synthetic fibres, but also because of the cannabis prohibition policies.
Today, the textile industry is rediscovering the many advantages of hemp:
- An ecological culture Low water requirements, no need for pesticides and soil enrichment.
- From resistant and thermoregulating fibres They provide comfort and durability.
- Potential for relocating the textile industry in Europe and BelgiumMany players are working hard to revive this production.
Thanks to these qualities, interest in textile hemp is growing, with research projects and cultivation trials being carried out across Europe.
Major advances for the textile industry
Le textile hemp can be used in various forms:
- Short fibres integrated into composites or mixed with other textiles (cotton, linen).
- Long fibres They are of better quality and can be used to manufacture 100 % hemp fabrics.
Recent research in Wallonia are particularly interested in long fibreswhich offer a credible alternative to cotton and flax fibres. Thanks to improvements in extraction and spinning techniques, they are now being used in the textile industry.textile industry is becoming increasingly accessible.
Hemp4Circularity : Research into cultivation and transformation
The project Hemp4Circularityfunded by Interreg North-West Europewas approved in March 2023 for a duration of 3 years and a budget of 3.8 million euros. Its objective is to develop an industrial sector of long hemp fibresfrom cultivation to recycling, as part of an integrated approach.circular economy and local textile reindustrialisation in North-West Europe.
The project Hemp4Circularity in particular coordinated by Valbiom (Belgian actor) and brings together 11 industrial partners. The tests carried out in Wallonia is showing promising results, with varieties adapted to local conditions and increasingly efficient processing. The mechanisation of harvesting and defibration is at the heart of research to optimise yield and fibre quality.
Project objectives and actions
To structure this sector, experiments are being carried out at every stage of production: crop trials, the development of new products and the development of new technologies. mechanisation harvest, the transformation in fibre, yarn, fabric and knitwear, as well as the development of solutions for recycling. At the same time, a awareness The project is accompanied by a training programme, with workshops and conferences aimed at players in the sector. Communication is aimed at informing brands and end-users about the potential of European textile hemp.
Beneficiaries
- Farmers Diversification with a profitable and sustainable crop.
- Hemp and flax sectors Complementing each other to expand their markets.
- Textile industry Access to a natural, local and traceable fibre.
- Consumers More ecological alternatives and information on natural fibres.
Adding value to all parts of the plant
Hemp is an all-in-one plant with great economic and environmental potential.
The project ExtraHempWalfunded by the Walloon Recovery Plan, explores the potential of textile hemp long fibres and promoting its flowering heads. Supported by ValbiomThis project aims to optimise hemp cultivation in Wallonia by adopting techniques inspired by flax (dense sowing, parallel stalks, extended retting).
The main objective is to extract molecules of interest (cannabinoids, terpenes, polyphenols) present in the tops of hemp plants, while maintaining a production of high quality long fibres. Several trials were carried out to :
- Determine the ideal cutting perioddepending on the maturity of the fibres and the presence of secondary fibres.
- Study drying and extraction methods best suited to Wallonia's infrastructure.
- Assess technical and economic feasibility of this covalorisation.
The results show strong potential and promising initial indications for applications in biocontrol. However, further analysis is needed to confirm these trends and optimise the valuation processes.
With ExtraHempWal, Wallonia lays the foundations for an innovative industry which combines textile production with the extraction of plant molecules. This opens the way to new economic and ecological opportunities.
Hemp textiles in Belgium: a sector in the making
Visit BelgiumA number of initiatives have been launched to revive the cultivation and processing of textile hemp. These include
- Agronomic trials Selection of the varieties best suited to Wallonia's climate and soils.
- Mechanisation research Developing high-performance harvesting and defibration techniques.
- Collaboration with institutions Université agronomique de Gembloux, CRA-W, sustainable textile companies.
The revival of hemp textile in Wallonia is based on an integrated approach combining technical innovation, structuring a local industry and complete recovery of the plant.
Conclusion: textile hemp, a material for the future
Textile hemp represents a ecological alternative, local and sustainable than conventional textiles. Thanks to recent advances in its cultivation and processing, it is positioned as a more responsible material for the future.
With the support of committed players and ambitious research projects, Belgium and Europe are laying the foundations for a textile industry in full revival.
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